We lucked into a wonderful hotel in Espasante (east of Ortigueira, on the northern coast). It is very modern and even has a whirlpool tub. But the incredible thing is the beach. It is a very small town, with two incredible beaches, one on each side. Long, curving sand beaches. On one side, there is a port at one end, with small fishing boats moored. One man was standing up in his boat--it looked like the stern was completely open (I thought it was sinking at first) and holding a line in each hand. Not my idea of an easy life. I couldn't tell that he caught anything. Standing on the beach looking out, you see cliffs and mountains all around. I couldn't really tell how you get out to the ocean. We walked a couple of blocks to a seafood restaurant we were assured was "the best." It was very good and very elegant, a little expensive. I had shrimp in butter and garlic. The bread was great, a big hunk of peasant bread, I guess you would say. Amelia had to convince them to make her a plain omelette with French fries. Her mixed salad came with tuna, as well as green olives and lots of raw onion, but she ate the lettuce. I ate the tomatoes. And the desserts...yum! A chocolate cake with nuts that was something like a brownie...with vanilla ice cream. And flan with lots of whipped cream--actually more than I could eat. I'll have to take my cholesterol medication before I go to bed.

We saw the most gorgeous views today from above here overlooking the waves breaking on the rocks. Also a forest of wind turbines. And the most interesting terrain. I guess a little like the moors. Cows and horses were wandering around among them. Earlier in the day, we left our beloved Casa Grande da Fervenza, with the English-speaking hostess, who checked us in, waited on us at meals and answered any questions we had. She even lent us her laptop last night so we could find a place to stay. Her name is Paula. When we left this morning, she gave us gifts--sets of cosmetics made from olive oil. I don't know if everyone gets them; she said it was for Amelia's birthday (which we had told her about). Amelia walked a little bit and then we headed out, driving about an hour to Betanzos. We drove through Betanzos and had to turn around to find a parking garage. The tourism office was right there, but it was closed. Who knows why? We were in the main plaza with a big church that appeared to not be open. The museum we wanted was supposed to be around the corner, but it took us forever to figure out which corner it was around.