We lucked into a wonderful hotel in Espasante (east of Ortigueira, on the northern coast). It is very modern and even has a whirlpool tub. But the incredible thing is the beach. It is a very small town, with two incredible beaches, one on each side. Long, curving sand beaches. On one side, there is a port at one end, with small fishing boats moored. One man was standing up in his boat--it looked like the stern was completely open (I thought it was sinking at first) and holding a line in each hand. Not my idea of an easy life. I couldn't tell that he caught anything. Standing on the beach looking out, you see cliffs and mountains all around. I couldn't really tell how you get out to the ocean. We walked a couple of blocks to a seafood restaurant we were assured was "the best." It was very good and very elegant, a little expensive. I had shrimp in butter and garlic. The bread was great, a big hunk of peasant bread, I guess you would say. Amelia had to convince them to make her a plain omelette with French fries. Her mixed salad came with tuna, as well as green olives and lots of raw onion, but she ate the lettuce. I ate the tomatoes. And the desserts...yum! A chocolate cake with nuts that was something like a brownie...with vanilla ice cream. And flan with lots of whipped cream--actually more than I could eat. I'll have to take my cholesterol medication before I go to bed.

We saw the most gorgeous views today from above here overlooking the waves breaking on the rocks. Also a forest of wind turbines. And the most interesting terrain. I guess a little like the moors. Cows and horses were wandering around among them. Earlier in the day, we left our beloved Casa Grande da Fervenza, with the English-speaking hostess, who checked us in, waited on us at meals and answered any questions we had. She even lent us her laptop last night so we could find a place to stay. Her name is Paula. When we left this morning, she gave us gifts--sets of cosmetics made from olive oil. I don't know if everyone gets them; she said it was for Amelia's birthday (which we had told her about). Amelia walked a little bit and then we headed out, driving about an hour to Betanzos. We drove through Betanzos and had to turn around to find a parking garage. The tourism office was right there, but it was closed. Who knows why? We were in the main plaza with a big church that appeared to not be open. The museum we wanted was supposed to be around the corner, but it took us forever to figure out which corner it was around.

Lugo

Last night we asked if we could stay here another night and they said no, they were full. Then we had a little stress trying to figure out where we wanted to go and find a hotel there. It has to have free wi-fi, a nice location, be reasonably priced, but not grungy and have a room available. Anyway, we are heading to the North Wind in Espasante on the north coast of Galicia. We will leave here about noon and go to Betanzos for lunch. The Spanish meal schedule really messes with sight-seeing (and shopping, of which we have done very little). Everything is closed from 2-4 or longer (1:30-5), when we are supposed to eat and take a siesta. I already feel like I am eating and sleeping all the time. So we want to get to Betanzos early enough to go to the museum there and walk around some before lunch. But we are usually very hungry by 2. And our record of getting on to the right road is not 100%. We have to get from here to Lugos and follow the road signs to Betanzos. Unfortunately, there don't seem to be a lot of road signs. And there is a lot of construction. I think Spain is fixing up everything, maybe because they were hoping for the Olympics. Or maybe they have realized that tourism is great for their economy.






Yesterday we walked around Lugo, which has an intact Roman wall around the oldest part of the city. It is big enough to walk on (8 people across if you wanted) and is a great way to see a small city like Lugo. I really enjoyed it. It is not so high as to be frightening, although I did not go to the edges and look down much. Like many towns in Galicia, they built a cathedral modeled after Santiago's. I like theirs better. Santiago's was more gilded and ornate. This one is more my speed. Although I may have seen enough dead Christs for a while. We found the provincial museum, which has some art of various kinds, including prehistoric shards. There are some Roman mosaics which were found when they were reconstructing something. One is of Daedalus and a very sexy-looking bull. Lots of old stuff everywhere and when you are in, say, the cathedral, or on the wall, I think of the thousands of people who have been before.

We are in the coolest room in an old mill, with walls of stone and round wooden beams in the ceiling. The sound of the mill race is constant. The birds woke us at 8, although it was again raining. They say it will be better weather soon and I do think I see blue sky out the skylights. The only trouble with staying in these gorgeous out-of-the-way places is they are miles (or should I say kilometers) from anywhere. It took us about 3 hours to get here yesterday from Santiago, a trip that should have taken only an hour. In fairness, it did take an hour to find our way out of Santiago. Road signs are not what we would like in Spain--maybe no one wants to find Lugo?

The food here is almost as good as Perfeuto Maria, although a little more expensive. There is a delightful young woman who speaks more English than anyone else we have met here. The restaurant is in the miller's first, more modest, home. There is a faucet in the dining room bringing water into a pool where they keep wine cold and fill pitchers to drink. Amelia was once again eating salad and eggs, but they were very good. And we had two awesome desserts: ice cream with a sort of fig and honey jam and a chocolate cake with molten center. I was feeling despondent that no American restaurants seem to be as good as the average European place. Salad with a perfect dressing, a little piquant. No leaves browning around the edges. How they get fresh ingredients every day miles from anywhere and still make a profit is a mystery to me.

I am all out of clean pants, so am running around Spain naked. Well, okay, just stinky. Apparently laundromats are not something to expect. Besides, who wants to do laundry on a day in Spain anyway?

Yesterday we left Perfeuto Maria and drove to Santiago de Compostela. It took a while to find where we wanted to go, but we did find a big parking lot fairly close to the cathedral. There were thousands of middle-aged and older people, mostly women in polyester pantsuits. They must come by the busload from all over Spain. Also saw a group of about 50 4-year-olds. I was glad that wasn't my job. The cathedral is very dramatic, all full of gilt and doll-looking figures. Some of it was fascinating, but mainly not my thing (or Amelia's) and full of people. We wandered around the plazas some. More figurines and churches around every corner, most not even mentioned in our guidebooks, there are so many. Some nice-looking shops, not just tacky touristy. We finally found the crepe restaurant we were looking for. You have to go in the right building and upstairs to find it, but it was tasty. Everywhere we are given more food than we can eat and hate to waste it.

I just woke up. It's very sunny. Amelia is in the shower. It's 5:00 at home, but nearly noon here. Of course, we didn't go to bed until after 2. The show was really fun and I like finding my way around in Spain, reading maps and asking questions in broken Spanish.

After it was over, Amelia had to stay at the theater and clean up and put things away. Ana was hired by the theater to hand wash the costumes and hang them to dry overnight. Amelia was helping and supervising, making sure everything is where they can find it. Of course, the costumes consist largely of what is euphemistically called "dance belts," sort of stylized underwear. Not having a lot of experience, I was highly amused that the costumes in this show consist almost entirely of a variety of underwear. When these performers leave stage, they put on their clothes, as opposed to most of the shows I've been in, where they get out of their costumes and put on their street clothes. Not to belittle their beautiful and skillful performances. As I told them, "it's okay, it's art." Before the show, I was introduced to almost all of the dancers, who were warming up in various stages of undress, doing exercises and stretches. Of course, they are mostly about the age of my children, and their bodies are very beautiful. It is pretty funny that Amelia, who was quite the most prudish person I know growing up (and still does not like me to see her undressed in our shared hotel room with a glass door on the bathroom) is working with a bunch of nearly-naked men and women. Of course, she is clothed, so she is almost comfortable.

I found a booklet that Amelia had about the Pilobolus tour in Spain, with directions to the theater by bus, car or subway. I took it with me so I would have the address and decided to take the bus, since I had plenty of time. To me, it is a great way to see a city that costs very little. The first bus stop I found was only for the number 11 and I needed the 5. I resigned myself to taking the subway instead. But there were some bus stops near there, including the 5. There were signs with the route maps and even an electric display stating that the number 5 would be here in 3 minutes. I was pleased and sat down to wait. The next thing I knew it was flying past me. Uh-oh, I guess it doesn't stop unless you are signaling that you want it. I went to my electronic sign--13 minutes until the next bus. That's okay, I can wait that long. This time, I stood up and watched and waved frantically. The buses are nice, with surprisingly comfortable seats. My stop was the last one, so I knitted and read and looked at the stores going past. Oh, not McDonald's! Burger King, Starbucks, KFC, H&M, Zara and lots of others.

I was walking around the Puerta del Sol at about 9:30 or 10 on a Saturday night. It was wall-to-wall people, most of them young. The women (some of them) were dressed to the nines (whatever that means) in short short poofy dresses, most of them black, and very high spiky heels. The men can get by with nice jeans and button up long-sleeve shirts--sounds like a double standard to me. There were many who were in what is to me more typical attire--baggy pants and loose shirts or t-shirts with slogans. I saw one AC/DC t-shirt. A lot of them were standing around talking, and many were smoking.

Some pictures from today:



Palacio Real - this has something like 2500 rooms, but they only use it for special occasions.

Shrimp, crabs...octopus!

I just woke up, it's light out and I was really disoriented. I had been dreaming and I couldn't figure out what time it was. Amelia's computer said 12:30. I decided that must be the time in NY, so it is 6:30 here. That's the time I was supposed to be at the early show, but we decided I had to sleep for a while and so changed my ticket to the late show of Pilobus. It starts at 10:30 pm...I should be there at 10, leave here at 9:30, assuming I don't need time for getting lost. Plus it will be dark then. Amelia told me how to get there, what subway to take and where to transfer, but at the moment, I can't even remember the name of the theater or the right stop. She will probably call here. I have never been so out of it in my life and I knew when she was telling me, I needed to write it down, but couldn't do anything but sleep.

This is probably the nicest hotel room I've ever seen, especially for Amelia, since it has very modern decor--lots of rectangular lamp shades, art on shelves leaning agains the wall, laminate dark wood-looking floors, even in the bathroom, silver and white metallic/grass-cloth looking walls, way too many mirrors. I am wearing the hotel-supplied bathrobe, which I think we are sharing, and drinking glasses of tap water. I am incredibly thirsty. In theory, they supply 2 bottles of water a day, but Amelia doesn't let them clean the room most days, so we are out. She suggested they would send some up if I called the desk. When I did, they transferred me to Room Service. I hung up, not wanting to pay a room service fee plus the cost of the bottled water. Plus I didn't feel like I wanted to discuss it in Spanish. The desk I am working on is a glass and steel table with electronics I can't recognize and a cool phone. Amelia's laptop is plugged into the internet with a cable.

All went well on the flight. Well, the flight from Athens was incredible. The plane has 9 seats. There were 4 of us, all women, ranging from 30s to 60. The pilots were 23 and 24. We asked afterwards. The plane felt like a station wagon with wings bolted on. When it started up, it seemed like we were trying to get up speed to be airborne, which might or might not succeed. Then it was pretty wobbly. There were some moments when I could knit, but most of the time I was gripping the bottom of my seat--no armrests or straps to hang onto. I am sure Ray or many of you would love it. We were never very high and could see every car on the road. I was amazed at how many trees there still are in Athens and Georgia. Some of the time we were in the clouds, completely surrounded by whiteness in a terrifying and yet somehow calming way. There were occasionally drops or wavers, making it feel like the pilots had little control. The landing was fine, although you definitely knew you were down, and slamming on the brakes for dear life. How to weigh convenience and cost against sheer terror? The record is good; no one has died on this trip and they do it 5 times a day each way. Some people would probably pay $39 for the fun of the ride, sort of like a super roller coaster. And it would be sort of a lark to go to Atlanta with a group of friends for the day. But I'm glad I am taking the ground shuttle when I go home. I'll have to see if I can gird up my loins to go again another time, now that I know what it's like. I sort of want to make sure they keep the service going.

Then I had hours in Atlanta. I had gone with only carry-on luggage. My rolling bag weighed less than 20 pounds and my big black tote bag about 17. By now, however, my shoulders and arms are good and tired of lugging them all the way here. I had printed my boarding pass and went right through security. They really had it moving along and I had to rush into my shoes and grab my things off the belt. I got out to my gate about 3 hours early, had a couple short phone conversations and went to find a place to sit and eat and drink. My gate was E-10 (?) and there is a small bar near there. I had a bowl of sweet potato soup and Pinot Grigio Ecco Domani--my favorite wine! I sat there awhile reading about the history of Spain in my new travel guide. The waitress was too chatty; she said she didn't know why the people coming here from other countries didn't study up like she had seen Americans. I said I thought they probably did. She said they never know what to order and I want them to like it. She said if she ever travels, she is going to learn to say chicken in every language--and bathroom.

I had realized in Athens that my camera card was already half-full and I didn't dare delete the pictures without double-checking that they had downloaded (from Mexico). Ray rushed off and bought me a new card. He was back in plenty of time, although it took us a while to get the packaging open. We put the new card in and--it was unreadable. He was so sad. So now, in the Atlanta airport, I started looking to buy one. It took a few tries, but there is a store near E-26 called Tech Showcase. Lots of not-too-useful stuff, but they had a 2 GB card for $20. Wow! That made my day. It is tiny, too small to fit in the slot in my camera, but it comes with an adapter to make it big enough. Then you can place it another adapter and put it right into a USB port to download to the laptop. Too cool! The only problem is how to keep the tiny adaptor (and the old card) safe while traveling. I grabbed the camera, but not the case. They are in a compartment in my wallet. I hope they won't be damaged.

Then I read some more and knitted a little and it was finally time to board. These giant international planes are pretty crowded--3 seats in the middle and 2 on either side. I had an aisle seat in the middle section. The people next to me were speaking Spanish. We had dinner and breakfast, okay but not great, certainly enough to keep me from starving. Also free wine. And not enough water. I couldn't get the attendants' attention to get more. And the sound didn't work on my little entertainment screen. I finally watched Monsters vs. Aliens with no sound. I dozed some, but didn't really sleep much. Then they were serving breakfast and it started to get light. The flight was very smooth and no serious problems.

I shouldered my bags and followed the signs to the Metro. It was a very long way. Amelia had instructed me to buy a 3-day pass for the least expensive zone. I couldn't find that option on the machines, but a nice English-speaking woman at the information desk told me how to find it (it's called a tourist ticket or pass and available in 1, 2, 3 or more days). Mine was 11,60. I had instructions from Amelia on where to transfer and where to get off and a map the helpful woman gave me. I had no trouble. When I emerged from the subway, I looked around. I saw a hotel with a sign that said AC, so I didn't need to ask anyone. I headed down the street and went up to room 809. I knocked and knocked and called Amelia. A woman finally opened the door and I said, "No esta Amelia? Lo siento mucho." I went down and asked at the desk and this was not the Hotel AC Cuzco. Oops! So sorry, ma'am. I had to walk back to the subway exit and the hotel was just the other side of it. I got in another little elevator, admiring the large and interesting lobby, rode up to the 8th floor, and knocked on her door. "She just left," said the chambermaid. "Acabo de salir." "oh, that can't be...why would she do that? Doesn't she know the first rule of meeting up with someone...stay put!" (I didn't say all that to the chambermaid.) I was about to rush back down and leave my suitcases, but she told me I had to take them down to the desk if I wanted to leave them. I sat on the bench by the elevators and got out my cell phone (and my glasses--traveling is one of the many times I wish I didn't need reading glasses!). I turned it on, no message from Amelia. I sent her a text message, but was pretty sure I didn't have international service: "where are you? I am at room 809." I went back to the room and grabbed my bags and called an elevator. Just as I was getting in, she said, "Mom." I had nearly broken the rule myself! She said she had been going to meet me in the lobby and must have gone down when I was going up. All's well that ends well. I was just a little flustered there at the end.

The room was lovely and all I wanted to do was bathe. She went ahead down for breakfast, while I ran a bath in the tub. Tiny--I had forgotten. The toiletries in this place are way more than I have ever seen. She had told me I didn't need to bring anything for that reason. I used their shampoo and body wash. The towel is ginormous and thick--almost too big; it's too heavy to wrap around your hair. Amelia came back, bearing croissants. She apologized, no pain au chocolat today. She did have a yogurt in her mini-fridge, delicious with a little bit of honey from a jar she had scavenged from the restaurant. I am afraid the rest of the hotels we stay in will not be as nice as this. There is even a bidet, which I haven't seen in years. I made a mess turning the water on.

We talked for a bit and decided to go to the Parque Retiro. Several subway stops and one transfer later, we were there. The weather was incredible. Not too hot, but sunny and beautiful.

We walked and walked.

I sat on a few benches every now and then. There were some great statues and the crystal palace, a building with glass walls, ceiling, etc; a pond with ducks and black geese.

And everywhere people, especially families. Roller-blading, cycling and walking and sitting and talking and eating and drinking. I began to fall asleep every time we stopped.

We got some food: tortilla espanola (thick potato omelette) and a salad. Amelia had some of the thick hot chocolate, even though it was really too warm for it. I am getting hungry again just thinking about it. I should figure out where I am going and make a start before it is pitch dark.

Well, this is it. The day I leave for Spain. I am packed into one small rolling case (that can be carried on) and one large tote bag. I will wear my travel knit black pants, a t-shirt and a travel knit jacket, warm socks and slip-on shoes. I don't know how I will get through the morning and focus on work, but I am sure I will.

Yesterday was long; I stayed at work late because Ray had a Democratic committee meeting. And I worked on my September reimbursements to turn in before I leave. I talked to Kerri about the things she may need to know while I am gone. She worries most about needing to write a check. I told her to just hand-write one if she needs to and I will enter it in the computer when I get back. At lunch time, I went and bought some euros and deposited Vanessa's monthly check. Hopefully I have paid all the bills that can't wait until I get back (both home and at work).

At 5:30 I zipped over to Joann Fabrics to get some needles that Amelia requested. They didn't have exactly what she wanted, but the Lion yarn was on sale, buy 1 get one 1/2 off. Then I had to find a new pattern, so studied the knitting magazines for a while. I bought all of one color, to make sure I had enough. Must have a fun project for travelling--not too hard, but interesting. Maybe it will even be for me!

Then I went to pick Ray up. He was not in sight and the meeting was right downtown, so I drove around and around the block. No parking handy.

Vanessa had supper ready when we got home. I repacked my suitcase, taking some things out and finalizing my toiletries (almost none--Amelia says there are plenty in the room).

I watched John Stewart and read through some of my library books, making notes of things I might want to know. (where to eat in Porto, Portugal--just in case we decide to drive there). I wasn't very sleepy but eventually fell asleep before midnight. Hopefully, I will be tired enough to sleep on the plane tonight. I have a slight cold, but not too bad. I should pack some cold pills in case.

I slept well last night, more than 8 hours straight. It is cool out (a little warmer than yesterday morning), our windows are closed and I had plenty of blankets. Maybe it was taking a bath before bed. And Ray read to me. It started years ago; we took turns reading to each other from whatever books we had , usually from the library. I mostly couldn't read very long before I fell asleep. I still read myself to sleep often. The book we are reading is called Bikini--sort of an adventure story involving a soldier with chips implanted to augment his mental abilities. I only heard a little bit of it before falling asleep.

Yesterday I continued working on cleaning up the hundreds of emails on the Director's computer. I also wrote some checks and found an error I had made in payroll and corrected that. Kerri and Amanda inventoried a closet and found lots of old things--mostly that we can throw out. Slides and a carousel. Then we bought (well I only wrote the checks) a lot of things for the shelter; we had some money that had to be spent by the end of the month. Baby beds, cups, diapers. It was fun.

Then we spent an hour at Borders and I bought a guide book to Spain and a book of road maps. Also a copy of Friedman's book as a birthday present for my Dad: Hot, Flat and Crowded.

They were home when we got there; tired from travelling. He has a little of his digestive issues, but otherwise they are fine. We had bought chicken because he warned me the day before that he was eating "mild." Vanessa boiled it and made "gravy" for us (he didn't have any). It was surprisingly yummy and I think he was appreciative.

Molli called me from Mexico; Adrian's cousin died and they are very sad. She is also annoyed because she has no paid leave, although they will allow her to miss two days of work.

Ray got my passport out of the bank for me. I went to buy euros, but didn't have any checks with me. I could have gone to the bank and gotten money out, but I thought I would go back today and buy some. My biggest dilemma is whether to try to travel really light--only what fits in a small rolling carryon and a big purse--or go up a size in suitcases. If I go light, I will take:

underwear, 1 pair pjs, 2 pr shoes, jeans, knit pants, t-shirts, sweater, bathing suit. No shorts, bathrobe, dresses, good shoes. Will I be sad not to have any choices? I could buy things there
but then I would have to leave something behind. In 24 hours, I will be on the plane to Madrid!